From Turquoise To Silver: Navajo Jewelry Traditions

Peter Morrell

Rooted in centuries of artistic expression and cultural identity, traditional Navajo jewelry-making is among the most iconic artistic contributions of Native Americans, reflecting a deep connection to the land, spirituality, and community. Before the introduction of metalworking, the Navajo, also called the Diné or "The People," used natural materials, including shell, bone, and stone, to craft jewelry and other adornments. However, Navajo jewelry-making underwent a major change in the mid- to late-1800s when silverworking was introduced. Spanish and Mexican influences played a key role in this development. Sharing their knowledge of blacksmithing and silversmithing, they exposed the Navajo to techniques and tools that changed the way Navajo artisans worked. Some even went as far as apprenticing in basic metalwork. Around the 1850s, Atsidi Sani, who is often regarded as the first known Navajo silversmith, learned blacksmithing from Mexican smiths and adapted those skills to create silver jewelry. By the 1870s, the practice had spread widely among Navajo artisans. Today, Navajo jewelry remains a vibrant and evolving tradition that marries historical roots and contemporary artistry to form something truly unique.

Materials and Techniques Used in Navajo Jewelry

Navajo jewelry is most famously associated with sterling silver and turquoise. Coral, jet, spiny oyster shell, and other natural materials are also popular in traditional Navajo jewelry-making. Turquoise, which has long been prized by Native American cultures across the Southwest, became even more prominent after silverworking became more widely used, with its blue-green hues pairing beautifully with the precious metal.

Early on, Navajo smiths would often repurpose Mexican and U.S. silver coins in their work, hammering, melting, and reshaping the materials into jewelry. Once trade routes were established, they began to acquire silver sheets and used those instead of silver coins.

Silversmithing techniques include stamping, in which designs are hand-stamped using homemade tools, and sandcasting, in which molten silver is poured into sandstone molds carved with intricate designs. Overlay and cluster work are other notable methods used in Navajo jewelry design. Cluster work involves arranging multiple small stones into flower-like or radial patterns. In contrast to the Zuni tradition of intricate stone inlay, which is characterized by precise craftsmanship and intricate designs, Navajo jewelry tends to favor bold silverwork and larger, untreated stones.

Variety of Navajo Jewelry

Navajo artisans produce a wide array of jewelry, each piece bearing cultural significance and artistic distinction. Bracelets, especially wide silver cuffs, are among the most popular and widely recognized items. These often feature stamping, raised designs, and large turquoise stones. Necklaces, particularly the iconic squash blossom necklace, are highly recognizable and sought-after as well. The squash blossom design is thought to have evolved from Spanish-Moorish horse bridle ornaments, and its crescent-shaped central pendant, called a Naja, holds both cultural and aesthetic importance, said to symbolize fertility or to protect the wearer from evil.

Rings vary from simple silver bands to more elaborate designs featuring large stones and extensive silverwork. Earrings, concho belts (with large silver disks), bolo ties, and pendants also showcase the diversity of Navajo jewelry. While some items are purely ornamental, many are deeply personal or culturally symbolic, having been passed down through generations or used in important cultural ceremonies.

Cultural and Spiritual Importance of Turquoise and Navajo Jewelry

Turquoise has deep spiritual resonance for the Navajo. It is believed to represent harmony, protection, and blessings from the earth and sky. Often called the "stone of life," turquoise is considered a sacred gift of nature. The Navajo belief that turquoise protects the wearer and attracts positive energy has made it a natural choice for personal adornment and ceremonial use.

Jewelry is not just a decorative art form in Navajo culture; it is also a way to honor family, express identity, and connect to sacred traditions. Certain pieces may be worn during ceremonies, given as gifts to mark important milestones, or created to honor spiritual teachings. And silversmithing itself is a respected and often intergenerational practice, taught from parent to child, preserving cultural continuity through hands-on tradition.

The Impact of Navajo Jewelry in the American Southwest

Navajo jewelry has become a powerful symbol of the American Southwest. Its distinctive blend of turquoise and silver is immediately recognizable, and it has played a central role in shaping perceptions of Native American artistry both regionally and globally. From trading posts in the 19th century to contemporary art galleries, Navajo jewelry has captivated the attention of collectors, inspired fashion trends, and reinforced indigenous identity in the United States. Beyond its aesthetic beauty, Navajo jewelry carries with it generations of deep meaning that is spiritual, cultural, and historical. As both art and heritage, it continues to thrive, evolve, and speak to the resilience and creativity of the Diné people.

Back to blog